How To Surf a Wave

Published 8/13/09 3 months ago | Views 172 Grade C     Outdoor Recreation / Surfing
Surf a Wave

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Grade C Views 172
Last edited 2 months ago

The Pipe: an awesome tube-like wave of water that looks even more impressive with a surfer hanging through ten of its green walls. Do you want to learn how? Read ahead!

Step 1  

Buy a surfboard with a leash. Something you feel comfortable riding.

 

Step 2  

Get to the beach.

 

Step 3  

Enter the water with your board under your hand and attach the safety strap to your ankle.

Step 4  

Lie flat on your board and paddle to the area where the waves begin to crash, with your head in the front of the board. Lie belly down on your board.

 

Step 5  

Move straight through the waves as you come to them. Paddle towards the shoulder of the wave or where the wave is not crashing. To avoid being rolled by the wave, stay perpendicular to the waves.

Step 6  

Turn the board so it faces the shore.

Step 7  

Catch a wave at its crest. Paddle as fast as the wave. Angle the board slightly away from where it is crashing (towards the shoulder).

Step 8  

Watch for other surfers with priority to you, those closest to the breaking part of the wave have this priority. If you take off in front of them, this is called snaking them. This is not cool and could end up in the surfer shooting his board at you or fighting you. This is the one rule most new surfers (0-5 years experience) lack. Like preschool on the swings, you have to take turns and there are no cuts.

Step 9  

Quickly stand up on your board. To do this you should place your hands under your shoulders on the surfboard. Then do a push up while springing off your legs and toes, this will give you enough height to get your feet underneath you. Make sure you spot where your foot is going.

Step 10  

Surf on the face of the wave. Lean to one side or the other to turn.

Step 11  

(Advanced) Listen for the barrel of the wave.

Step 12  

Drag your hand in the water to "back into" the tube.

Step 13  

Ride the wave until it tapers of or closes.

Tips

  • Practice, practice, and practice.  
  • Start out on small waves!
  • Don't learn how to surf in crowded areas, find an uncrowded area away from surfers that have experience.

Warnings

  • Be very careful when you do this.
  • Do not touch, or let your board touch, the impact of zone of your barreling wave. This may snap your board (and you).

Via wikihow

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