How To Care for Orchids

Published 8/21/09 3 months ago | Views 80 Grade C     Home & Garden / Gardening
Care for Orchids

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Grade C Views 80
Last edited 2 months ago

Orchids have long been a sign of love and favored as either a corsage worn on the dress, or as a wrist band at most Proms. Most orchids have no scent, but their beauty and elegant colors give the wearer a sense of pride, not quite felt with wearing a Carnation. They are a thing of beauty in themselves, and the colors are bright and magnificent. The stems can be cut, and easily placed in a vase, as they call attention to themselves by lighting up any room with their multiple colors and shapes. Yet in order for them to remain at their best, you need to know the specifics of how to take care of Orchids properly.

Step 1  

Water the orchids. Water thoroughly when dry and allow the media to dry between watering. The plants use more water when they are in flower. Mist the foliage between watering but avoid spraying water directly on flowers as it makes them susceptible to fungus which will make them rot.Keep evenly moist and never let the media dry out completely. Remove the inner pot from the decorative one, place in the sink or in the shower if you have many. Add orchid food to a watering can or container, and completely water the base. Allow the water to completely drain before replacing it into the decorative pottery planter. Never allow it to sit in water, as it will kill the plant. Orchids are not planted in earth, but in the shell of a coconut, bark or cork. Their roots grow from the top, and not the bottom as usually found in plants. Also avoid excessive water in the center of the plant where new leaves grow as it may cause rot.

 

Step 2  

Keep the correct temperature. 65-85ºF (18-30ºC) is best. For brief periods, they can withstand temperatures ranging from 60 to 100ºF (16-37ºC) but they dislike sudden temperature changes. Cold temperatures will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop off. If this happens, remove the yellow foliage and continue caring for the plant normally. During the winter, do not feed the plant. In late spring, start applying a balanced fertilizer every other watering, using 1/3 the normal concentration.

Step 3  

Watch for new growth. This will be in the form of a new cane growing from the base of the old ones. Under correct conditions, the new cane can be larger than the mother cane before it is ready to bloom again.

 

Step 4  

Maintain the blooms. Peak blooming time starts from late winter, primarily February and March. Blooms normally last from 4 to 12 weeks. When the blooms fade, cut off the spike ½ inch above where it projects from the foliage. Cool nighttime temperatures (from -20ºF below daytime temperature) help to initiate blooms. With proper care, the plant should grow and bloom annually.

Step 5  

Feed the orchid. During the winter, do not feed the plant. In late spring, start applying a balanced fertilizer every other watering, using 1/3 the normal concentration. New growth will be in the form of a new cane growing from the base of the old ones. Under correct conditions, the new cane can be larger than the mother cane before it is ready to bloom again.

Step 6  

Re-pot when necessary. All orchids prefer being somewhat root-bound with their roots protruding from the top of the media. However, as plants produce more new canes or spikes, they can eventually outgrow their pot. Carefully replant your plant into a larger pot with porous media and good drainage. When watering them, remove the inner pot from the outer clay pot, make sure all the water has drained out from the holes on the bottom, and then replace it.

 

Step 7  

Use the correct growing media. Orchids are commonly killed by being planted in soil. Most orchids are epiphytes and require very different growing media than houseplants. Epiphytes have thick fleshy roots used to attach themselves to trees or bark and to absorb water and nutrients. They grow best in soilless mixtures or attached to pieces of bark or cork. One of the best ways to kill an epiphytic orchid is to plant it in soil. They require a growing media with extremely good aeration and drainage. Commercially prepared orchid potting mixes are available or a mixture can be prepared containing chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic stone, charcoal, a little peat, fir bark or combinations of these.

Step 8  

Get a suitable container. The type of container can be either plastic or clay, although clay is often preferred due to its excellent porosity. If using a clay container, enlarge the drainage hole or make additional holes on the sides (near the bottom) of the pot. Watering and fertilizing practices may have to be adjusted, depending on the type of container and media selected.

Selecting an Orchid

  • The orchids mentioned below are suggested for growing in the home because of their adaptability to most conditions, ease of growing, availability and their beautiful flowers. Buy the plants that already have flowers, because it can take up to 5 years for a seedling to produce a flower. Select an orchid based on the growing conditions in your home, because each type of orchid has different requirements. Always read the label with instructions to make sure the plant is suitable for you.
  • Phalaenopsis species: Usually referred to as moth orchids, these are one of the most elegant orchids for indoor use. Their long sprays of colorful flowers stay fresh for a few months. Flowering begins in winter or early spring and they need less light than cattleyas and do well in most indoor conditions. 
  • Cattleya species: These orchids are the most easily recognized for their use in corsages and for having a flower that can last from 2-6 weeks. They usually flower once a year during spring or fall and need twice the amount of light of moth orchids to do well inside the home. 
  • Dendrobium species: These beautiful Orchids produce long, graceful sprays of flowers that are typically white, lavender or a combination of the two during fall and winter. Their flowers can remain open about 3-4 weeks. They are one of the easiest plants to care for. 
  • Paphiopedilum: The popular name for this orchid is Lady's Slipper, because the third petal is modified to form a pouch that looks similar to a lady's slipper. The pouch functions by trapping insects so that they are forced to climb up past the staminode, behind which they collect or deposit pollinia. The leaves are quite often attractive with green or mottled green and white colors. They require bright light, no direct sun. At home, an east, west or shaded south window. Foliage should be naturally semi erect and firm, not drooping. Room temperature is ideal for their growth. 

Tips

  • One of the fastest ways to kill an orchid is to let it sit in a waterlogged pot. The frequency of watering depends on the type of orchid, media, light conditions, container characteristics and temperature.
  • In general, when orchids are actively growing, water once per week and allow them to dry slightly before the next watering. At each watering, apply enough water so that some drains from the bottom of the pot.
  • More frequent watering may be required for plants in clay or small pots and those growing in open bark mixes. In these cases, watering twice per week is usually satisfactory. Orchids rest after flowering; watering should be reduced at this time.
  • Water is especially critical for phalaenopsis, because they do not have organs (pseudobulbs) for water storage. Do not let phalaenopsis completely dry out. Water thoroughly, and do not water again until nearly dry throughout the container. Do not allow water to remain on the leaves or in the leaf axils, as this may readily lead to disease and death.
  • Fertilizing: Orchids require regular fertilization to grow and flower properly, but too much fertilizer can quickly damage plants. Water-soluble types of fertilizer specifically formulated for orchids are available at most garden centers and are easy to use.
  • Orchids growing in bark require fertilizer with a higher ratio of nitrogen, such as 30-10-10 or 15-5-5. Mounted orchids and those not planted in bark grow well with even formula fertilizer ratios, such as 20-20-20. A "bloom-booster" type formulation can be used in the autumn that has a higher phosphorus formulation (the middle number), such as 10-30-20.
  • Apply soluble fertilizers monthly, according to the rates recommended on the label. A dilute fertilizer solution can be used to water plants weekly during the growing season. Each month, use plain water to rinse any accumulated fertilizer salts out of the pot.
  • After flowering, when the foliage growth stops, reduce water and fertilizer applications until new leaf production starts again.

Warnings

  • Orchids are susceptible to a number of insect and disease problems.
  • Common insect pests include mealybugs, spider mites, scales and thrips. Scales are usually attached to the underside of the leaves, and heavily infested plants should be discarded.
  • Physically removing the scales and then controlling the immature stages with chemical sprays may help lightly infested plants. Snails and slugs can feed on buds, blossoms, leaves and tender stems.
  • Diseases that are commonly a problem on orchids include leaf spots, petal blight, bacterial soft rot and many different viruses. Another common problem is the failure to flower, which is typically due to poor growing conditions, especially inadequate light and/or fertilizer.

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